Being Home and Staying Home

Yesterday I was out for my once daily walk, grateful for the fresh air after spending my first seven days in isolation at the house, and amongst the rainbow signs in the windows I saw one that read “When it rains look for rainbows, when it’s dark look for stars”. The phrase has stayed with me since. Though perhaps slightly cheesy, it sums up perfectly how I am trying to see the current situation.

I have been back in the UK two weeks exactly now. In the first week there was definitely a sense of being on edge. I waited to see if my cough got worse or if my exhaustion was merely jet lag or something more. I used separately plates, cutlery, glasses and I washed them up separately with my own gloves. There was only so much I could avoid touching and places in the house where I couldn’t keep the two metres distance from my mum and aunt but I turned lights on and off with the sleeve of my jumper. It was the same with doorknobs. I didn’t hug my mum, after not seeing her for over nine months, until I had been home around ten days. I kept my towels and toiletries in my room and wiped down the bathroom after every shower, the sink after every time I brushed my teeth.

Was it the right decision to come home despite the risks? One hundred per cent. Joey had said to me more than once when we were deliberating what to do that going home for us wasn’t just to be able to be with our families, or have greater financial security in our own country but that it was important to our mental health as well. I don’t think I fully accepted this, I think it seemed the most selfish reason at the time, but now that I’m no longer waking up every day feeling sick to my stomach, no longer restless to the point where the only things that would calm my mind for brief periods were walking or swimming, no longer feeling like my heart was pounding and everything was a rush, a race, now I understand. There are still anxieties, there is still uncertainty about the future but never have I felt so untethered as I did in those last weeks in Australia and never have I felt so solid being home.

Slowly, as no symptoms developed, I relaxed around the house. After eight days I went out for a walk, keeping my distance from everyone I passed. Yet when I’m in the house there is this strange sense of disconnect. I can almost pretend I’m just home for a visit or back for the holidays, then, as easy as flipping a switch, the news brings reality back into our lives. Many people still trapped abroad and, from what I can tell, not enough being done to get them home. There are nurses and doctors, their faces bruised and scarred from their endless shifts on the frontline of this coronavirus battle, as the news calls it. On social media they post tearful videos asking people to stop hoarding, to have some compassion, to appreciate them. There are carers battling just as hard and feeling under-appreciated and overwhelmed. For every day that goes by where I am grateful for not knowing anyone to have had Covid-19 there is a family mourning a loved one, their hearts breaking that they could not even be with them in the final moments.

However, there are moments that lift our hearts as well. I was watching Contagion the other night and although many phrases and scenarios seemed eerily similar to the reality we are now living in the film also depicted nightmare images of streets full of rubbish, riots, looting and violence. I am grateful we have not come to this. Instead we share videos of people singing in their living rooms, or dancing with their neighbours while keeping social distancing. Celebrities are speaking to us from their living rooms, wearing cosy jumpers and being interrupted by their kids, their cat walking in front of the screen or their dog barking in the background, a glimpse into their lives beyond the camera and a reminder of everyone being in this together. Jamie Oliver recording his cooking show on his phone, his kids wandering in to help or shouting in the background, his wife holding the phone after he tried to juggle close ups and stirring the pasta at the same time and his breathless gratitude to his film crew who are currently out of work. We hear stories of people delivering food to the vulnerable and the elderly. There are people turning their businesses around in a matter of days or weeks to be able to deliver essentials, make masks or sanitiser, to change their businesses to work online. There are gym trainers, dance instructors, yoga teachers who are re-thinking their whole business dynamic to be able to keep afloat and although the circumstances for having to do so are tragic, it will perhaps have a lasting effect and create new opportunities for them in the future.

I am amazed everyday at the positivity that has come along with these trying times and I am trying to hold on to that positivity too. Before leaving Australia we had plans to work in Byron Bay, a place I miss more than I thought I would, travel the East Coast and set up a life for ourselves in New Zealand for the next year or two. All those plans have crumbled now. In many ways I feel I am back where I started only worse off. I’m living at home, no job, the industry I have loved working in is at a stand-still but instead of dwelling on what has gone wrong I am trying to see this as an opportunity for change. Over the past year or so I have been thinking a lot about what is important to me and what I want out of life and this feels like the perfect opportunity to begin again, to ensure the important things take precedence and to shape my life however I want it. I hope this does not sound insensitive because please, don’t get me wrong, I am not in any way saying that coronavirus has been a good thing or that the pandemic has given me this opportunity. What has given me this outlook is my own personal situation that the effects of coronavirus has put me in, in the same way that people all over the world are changing the way they work, on how much time they spend with their families and on what passions they once didn’t have time for and now can indulge in.

I guess what I’m saying is that through the down-pouring of sadness, of loss and of fear we should still look out for rainbows. That even in these dark days our eyes can slowly adjust until we can begin to see the stars.

Our Trip vs. Coronavirus – How The Pandemic is Affecting Us

I had a blog written out ready to post explaining how we were being affected by the virus out here, what our fears are and what our possible next steps are. Within the two days it took for me to get round to posting it some of those concerns are already happening.

For a while coronavirus has been something going on in other parts of the world. We have followed the situation and felt concern for people all over the world suffering but have felt very much in a bubble ourselves. Other than the toilet paper and pasta shortages hitting us and some health and safety signs appearing around the hostel, life continued on pretty much as normal.

Then it seemed like overnight everything changed. I had people coming in to the Peterpans office asking about cancelling trips as they were being advised to return home ASAP, a friend at the hostel who planned on staying out the next few months changed his flights to leave first in two weeks time and then in two days time. I was hearing about people’s tours being cancelled, others were coming in to book things only to cancel them the next day in order to fly home.

Yet UK has still not issued the same warnings yet and so we felt stuck with what to do. On the one hand it felt like we would be panicking to leave suddenly straight away but on the other hand being prepared for the possibility of having to leave very last minute seemed a sensible idea. Our biggest issue is being here on the WHV means that, unlike most travellers, we have commitments here and a life here that we can’t just drop. We have a car, have just started renting a room, a collection of camping gear and surf boards we have accumulated over our time here all of which would need to be sorted before going home.

One of our biggest concerns was losing our jobs. Both being on casual contracts meant our hours could disappear overnight and although we would be able to keep going on savings for a little while this set back would certainly put our travel plans to continue on to New Zealand and do a WHV there unlikely. And two days after trying to sum this up in the original version of this blog, I got a call from my manager to say my hours have been cut for the next 2-3 weeks. Work may pick back up again but for now they are only keeping one manager in each store to keep things running but couldn’t afford to be running at full capacity. Many colleagues were already looking for alternative work just in case. Within half an hour of learning this news I received a text from my second job cleaning to say that in order for Joey to keep his hours (I was cleaning his bosses house while he worked as a housekeeper for their luxury guesthouse next door) she would have to let me go.

Our plans went from: lets stick it out here until we lose our jobs then sell our stuff and travel where we can and head home to completely questioning this. After a long talk we decided to put our New Zealand plans on hold and come home around late May. At this point we were still hopeful that we might be able to do some travelling while here to make the most of our time.

Today we woke up to news about airlines reducing flights or cancelling their international flights. It was enough to make us re-think yet again. Although Australia and Byron Bay is currently safer than the UK, we certainly don’t want to get trapped over here, so although we aren’t rushing and trying not to panic, our plans to leave are definitely moving forward. We spent the day listing every item that we want to sell and currently our plan is to come home as soon as our things have sold, most importantly that the car has sold.

However, everything could still change. New information is coming through everyday and if the UK start recommending we return home our plans may speed up even more.

For now, luckily, Joey still has work and in fact is covering for colleagues who have returned home so we don’t yet have to rely on savings to live out here. Luckily we have just moved into a house and are away from the hostel and mix of people. We feel fairly stable in our situation here for now at least. Yet the situation is stressful and I found myself feeling extremely anxious today. All we can do is keep making plans and sticking to them until the situation changes again.

This trip has been a mixture of incredible highs but also some intense lows. We are so so sad that right when everything seemed to be coming together and we were enjoying living in Byron Bay so much, had plans for future traveling and working, that things have taken a turn for the worse again. But this trip isn’t the same anymore and this pandemic is bigger than this one trip, it changes everything. A part of us is happy to be going home, despite the circumstances, because we do look forward to seeing family and friends (after the necessary period of isolation of course) and being home for big life events that are upcoming in the next few months. This is the silver lining.

It seems no one can predict how things will go from day to day so we continue to monitor the situation and put our plans in place for now. I will post more updates as I can but sad to say for now, it will be making the most of our time left in Byron Bay before we say goodbye to Australia.

Life In Byron Bay – Beach Days, Attempting to Surf and Hippy Vibes

How to sum up living in Byron Bay? Byron Bay is a colourful place, with buskers filling the streets with music, boutique cafes, Mexican food, burgers bars, rainbow hippy shops, thrift stores and surf shops. It is not uncommon to see people doing their groceries or going about their day bare foot. There is a twilight market every Saturday and more scattered around town on different dates. Most people surf or at the very least are regulars to the beach and it is the perfect place to practice yoga and meditation. It’s chilled and built up and busy enough for there to be lots to do without feeling overcrowded or too touristy. We felt right at home straight away.

We had checked in to Wake Up hostel in a private room and it was lush. The hostel is right over the road from the beach, has free surfboard and bike hire, yoga lessons and is generally really pretty and clean. We could only afford to stay in our private room a week and then moved into dorms but even these were nice and the hostel is fairly chilled. There are definitely party vibes, especially on the pizza, free wine and cheese and BBQ nights but common areas close at 10pm meaning everyone is either out or in bed letting you get a good nights sleep, which is always a challenge in a hostel!

To begin with we struggled to make friends around the hostel, and the social atmosphere of being in hostels instead of the van had been what I was really looking forward to, but we quickly discovered most of the people we met were moving on while we were staying. So we had a few great nights out with people who were around for a few days but it wasn’t until some new hostel workers started and we met some other long term guests that we felt more like we had a group of friends here.

Day to day if we don’t have work we will laze on the beach (I finally have a tan so I can go home actually looking like I went somewhere hot!) or attempt to learn to surf. I try to go to yoga as often as I can and even enjoyed the local pool once. We like trying new places around town to eat; we loved the snapper burrito at Miss Margharitas, The Treehouse restaurant next door does amazing nachos and maybe the best calamari I’ve ever had and if you want burgers head to Main Street Burgers – their milkshakes are also amazing!

There are still a lot of Byron Bay activities we are yet to do as having opposite work schedules doesn’t make it easy to coordinate. We have checked out the lighthouse and hope to go back on a sunnier day to complete the walking trail that leads down to the beach. We also checked out Killan Falls, a beautiful waterfall just outside of the town. The water is cold and refreshing, with a nice area to swim after a short clamber over the rocks. There are a couple more waterfalls we want to check out, including Minyon Falls.

We’ve also taken two trips up the Gold Coast to Movie World and Wet ‘n’ Wild. The latter was Ashlie’s suggestion, we managed to cross paths with her again as she made her way down the coast and she messaged me to ask if we could go to Splash Park while we were there. I couldn’t find any mention of a Splash Park in Byron Bay or even up the coast, then she explained she heard about it on The Inbetweeners movie and I managed to connect the dots and find out they renamed Wet ‘n’ Wild for the film. We booked a pass that allowed us entry to four parks for less than the price of two entries and we could enter as many times as we wanted over the course of a year.

We met Ashlie at the park and had a great day floating down the lazy river, catching up on each other’s trips in the jacuzzi and screaming our heads off down the water slides. There was only one drop slide we chickened out off and one other we ran out of time to do but it made for a fun day out for sure.

The next day we drove up to Nimbin to check out this crazy little hippy town. It was raining most of the time so we had lunch and ducked in and out of shops selling rainbow clothes, crystals, books on tarot reading and witchcraft and of course plenty of marajuana paraphernalia. There were a couple of signs for hash cookies but whereas I remembered coming to visit and being offered cookies left right and centre it now seemed to be a lot more subtle. I was a little disapointed there wasn’t more to Nimbin, especially for the distance to get there from Nimbin but on a drizzly day it makes for an interesting thing to do.

We also made use of our pass to visit Movie World. I was super excited as I love rollercoasters but Joey… not so much. He is not a fan of heights or fast rides and unfortunately most of the rides were either big rollercoasters or small kiddies ones. I managed to convince him to join me on the Scooby Doo ride though, which was classed as a thrill ride but looked more family friendly on the posters so I figured would be perfect for the both of us.

It started out very serene with just a few bumps and very minor drops, then we went into a tunnel of screens and the whole track took us up to another level. I jokingly said, “what would you do if it suddenly dropped?” And Joey was like, “Don’t!”. We reached the next level and the cart started to move backwards, we figured it would swing round and start going straight again, then continue at the fairly sedate pace it had been at before but suddenly we speeded up, heading backwards and before we knew it the ground seemed to disappear for a moment and we were dropped backwards. I have never seen a funnier sight than the look of surprise and terror on Joey’s face! I couldn’t stop laughing and once he got over the initial shock, neither could he! The rest of the ride was a lot of fast twists and turns but nothing could beat that first backwards drop! It made our day.

We also checked out the very cheesey shows together but when it came to the DC Rivals Hypercoaster, the fastest and longest hypercoaster in the Southern Hemisphere I was on my own. I was scared while queueing but just tried not to think of it. I was terrified on the ride! But it was the most fun ever! My legs were like jelly afterwards from clenching them so much but wow it was exhilarating. I also went on Superman rollercoaster, which was just as exciting in terms of speed but this also meant it was over so quickly. Unfortunately three of the other big rides were closed for maintenance so we made note to come back another day to test them out too.

Other than our occasional side trips, nights out from the hostel and evenings listening to live music by main beach or hopping into town just for an ice cream fix, life ticked on in Byron Bay. We mostly enjoyed being at the hostel, especially for all the perks of living there but in the end we decided we had had enough of bunk beds, busy shared kitchens and people waking us up in the middle of the night and searched out a private room. We found an option in a share house with a German man, Tom who shared the house with his teenage son who visits on alternative weeks. The room was the cheapest we had seen to include an en suite, balcony and walk in closet – we were immediately excited for all the space we would have! We slept on the decision but felt good about the place straight away and signed up for it the next day. We’ve just enjoyed our last week at the hostel and check out today!

As we continue to explore Byron Bay and the surrounding area I’ll be able to share more tips and information. For now we are enjoying taking life slow with lazy beach days and saving some money through working again.

Coff’s Harbour and A Change of Plan in Byron Bay

The rain had started and did not look set to stop anytime soon. We packed up, said goodbye to Janet and family and drove through the rain to Coff’s Harbour.

There isn’t a huge amount to do in Coff’s Harbour and I had always thought I would skip it out if I came back to do the East Coast but we figured it might be better to wait out the bad weather somewhere where there wasn’t a lot going on than head to Byron Bay with the great beaches we just wouldn’t be able to enjoy. So we booked into the YHA and cosied down for the evening.

It turned out to be an interesting evening. I woke in the middle of the night to giggling and the person below me seemed to not be in her bunk and there were two people on the bottom bunk opposite Joey’s. I assumed one of the girls had got back from a night out and was having a catch up with the other girl who was on my bottom bunk. I groggily stumbled out of bed to the bathroom but when I came back to the room, thanks to the bedside light that was perfectly highlighting the activities going on on the bottom bunk despite the privacy sheet they had hung up, I realised these two girls were definitely doing more than just catching up! I scurried up to my bunk, plugged my headphones in and grabbed my phone to see the disbelieving messages from Joey who had unfortunately gotten woken up by their fun times a lot earlier in the night. This hasn’t been my first experience of this but hopefully it will be the last!

While we had been driving the day before I had commented to Joey how much the weather reminded me of rainy old England. I then flipped through my Instagram stories only to see a similar comment on a video of the rain by an old friend, Sienna, I worked with at Nando’s. After seeing a few more pics I realised she must be on the same route as us up the East Coast and dropped her a message. I suggested if she was passing through Coff’s Harbour we have a catch up so we met for lunch at SOMETHING down the road from our hostel.

It was really nice to share our travel experiences with someone I knew from home. She has also had some incredible adventures through Africa, Bali and more on her way to Australia and was very much at the beginning of her trip but already had some awesome stuff planned. We shared our experiences so far and swapped stories about camping and road tripping as this is how she was traveling the East Coast.

After lunch we said our goodbyes and wondered whether we would cross paths again at another point on the East Coast. The rain was easing off so we headed to the boardwalk for a look out to sea and were rewarded by spotting a pod of dolphins swimming and playing in the bay. It must have been quite a big group and some with youngster, popping up out of the water here there and everywhere. We even saw some turtles surfacing too. So glad we decided not to hide out in our hostel all day.

On our way out of Coff’s Harbour we passed the famous Big Banana there but as the weather was still not great we only snapped a quick pic from the car and continued on our way to Byron Bay.

I was excited to see Byron Bay again and whether it was as lovely as I remember it being. The sky was overcast but a little sun was peaking through so as soon as we arrived and got checked into a beachside hostel, Wake Up, we went for a walk on the sand, revelling in the beach time we would be sure to enjoy here.

While checking in I had noticed something else, a sign at Peterpans travel shop saying Staff Wanted. I had joked about us finding work to wait out the rain and we knew we needed to find work soon enough anyway that after speaking to the manager I decided to apply.

We didn’t have any plans for how long we would spend in Byron Bay, we thought we might stay long enough to enjoy some sunny days then continue up the coast. Within a day of applying I had an interview, got a call to confirm I had the role that evening and by the end of the week I was in training. It was exciting to have such a quick turn around and also to be doing something I had been doing back in the UK and enjoyed so much there.

The only downside was going back to working so soon into a travelling portion of our trip, but being on the East Coast means we can easily plan side trips to other areas and do lots of exploring in our free time. There was also a lot of worry and stress in the first couple of weeks of me getting the job that, as great as it was I had found work so quickly, it appeared there weren’t many jobs going for Joey. Byron Bay is such a popular place for people to stop and work that many businesses, especially in the low season, prefer to hire residents who will be there permantly rather than moving on after a month or so. Our accommodation was also not the cheapest and with only one wage coming in we had doubts about making this work, were we just stuck here now, too scared to risk giving up a job to find work elsewhere but slowly draining our money if we stayed?

Luckily things turned around pretty quickly. Joey found a job as a housekeeper for 28 Degrees, a luxury high end holiday guesthouse. Though it seemed he would only get a few hours to start with he has already ended up working more shifts than planned so it finally started to look like living in Byron Bay was realistic for us.

And so far we are loving it. I’ll talk more about living here in my next post but it is great being so close to the beach, having the time to go to yoga every other day, a cute hippy town full of interesting shops and great restaurants. Byron Bay was just as awesome as I remembered it being. It wasn’t part of the plan to end up staying here, but that is part of this up and down journey through Australia, everything is constantly changing and sometimes it all works out for the best.

Back On The Road Again – Sydney, Cocktails and Catching Up With Old Friends

As we left our au pair family we were sad to go but we also couldn’t help but be excited for the next leg of adventures ahead! The van was no more. Unfortunately after it’s massive breakdown and the cost being too high to fix it up we had to sell it. We were so sad to say goodbye as it had been not just a source of transport but a home to us, somewhere we felt safe, knowing no matter what happened we had a roof over our heads. It is not all doom and gloom though as we now have… THE FALCON! Yes, we bought a Ford Falcon car to continue our road tripping dreams. It is much less glamorous but so much smoother to drive and with our camping equipment in the back we are still ready to pull up anywhere.

Our first long drive in the Falcon was going to be a big one! Tocumwal to Sydney was a 710km drive and took around 8-9 hours! We did stop along the way. Joey had lined up some interesting places from a humongous ram statue to a tiny one of a Dog on a Tucker Box in honour of the dogs that would guard their master’s valuables if their bullock teams, that serviced the area, got stuck. And lets not forget the H.M.S Otway, a reconstructed submarine about as far away from the coast as you can get but erected there in honour of it’s captain who completed daring missions and even had the town, Holbrook, named after him.

It had been a hot day and even with the aircon blasting we were feeling tired and frazzled by the time we pulled up at our destination just outside the city of Sydney. We would be staying with my best friend’s family Janet and David, and their sons Taylor and Harry. When I travelled to Australia eight years ago with my friend Elle we had stayed with them then and their kindness and hospitality had not changed! We immediately sat down to a meal by the pool and a rapid fire catch up session. It felt so relaxing and their kindness just kept coming as they offered to keep an eye on the car while we stayed in the city for a couple of nights and then even offered for us to stay again on our return. The cherry on the top was getting to have a cooling nighttime dip in the pool before bed.

The next morning Janet and Taylor took us for a drive around the local area. They were fortunate enough to live right on the edge of national parkland so we wound up and down hills, getting glimpses of the sea through the thick trees. Again the landscape is changing for us, the humidity picking up, and more greenery with dense trees. It was a joy to see the ocean too as our trip has been severely lacking beach time so far. We were also passing some magnificent beachside houses and we marvelled at how the car ports had better views over the sea than most homes do!

They took us to Avalon Beach and Palm Beach, which is used for filming in Home and Away. The weather being on the verge of turning we didn’t stop long at the beaches and instead headed into the city to catch the Sunday markets at The Rocks. This was also where we drove over the Sydney Harbour Bridge and caught our first glimpse at the Opera House. We enjoyed some great burgers for lunch, wandered through the markets and drove back in time for an afternoon at the cinema just as the rain came down.

Unfortunately the rain was not short lived and in fact looked set to haunt us over the next week or two up the East Coast. The following day we visited a nearby mall, got in some retail therapy and some terrible cheap haircuts and the day after that we caught the Manly ferry into the city, staying in Wake Up! Sydney hostel for a couple of nights.

Once we were checked in we went to see the Botanical Gardens and walked through Hyde Park to see the Anzac Day Memorial. The calming effect of walking through the gardens seemed to make us a little too calm and no sooner had we found a nice spot to overlook the Opera House than we found ourselves dozing on the grass.

The girls we were sharing our hostel dorm with seemed to have much more energy than us! We couldn’t help but feel old as they played drinking games and talked about bar hopping and we got ready to go out for some sophisticated cocktails. Sometimes we are definitely not stereotypical backpackers! We had drinks at Zephyr Sky bar overlooking Darling Harbour and we didn’t care what kind of backpackers we were, we had a great time! Slightly less of a great time was being woken up by the girls giggling at 4am. Hostel life!

Our second day in the big city turned out to be lovely and sunny so we took advantage by heading to Bondi Beach. It somehow seemed much smaller in reality than what we had seen on Bondi Beach Rescue. I loved the murals on the walls along the beachside and watching the surfers catching waves. There is a great walk from Bondi to Coogee beach so we set off, getting to see rockpools, stunning coastline and other smaller beaches along the way. Lack of sleep plus tiny hangover plus heat plus time constraints meant we didn’t manage to complete the walk.

Another treat from being in the city was going to the cinema and since we couldnt get tickets to an outdoor one in the Botanical Gardens, Joey tracked down a library themed VIP experience nearby. We sat in reclining leather chairs, bookshelves all around us, drinks and popcorn being delivered to our table – it was bliss! We went to see 1917, which I was sceptical whether I would like as I’m not usually a fan of war films but actually found to be spectacular! Reluctant to go straight back to the dorm we ventured over to the Opera Bar for a drink by the harbour, only having to duck inside once to avoid the rain.

With the rain on and off all day we didn’t do much exploring on our way back to the ferry, or get to see much of Manly as planned, instead hiding out in a restaurant until Janet could pick us up. We told them all of the fun things we got up to in the city and spent the evening feeling cosy watching T.V.

The rain only got worse the following day and so other than popping out to a favourite local cafe for lunch we hid out having a full on movie day and watching the water in the pool slowly rising. The news was warning about flash floods and where we had been looking forward to Byron Bay we were now hearing residents were knee deep in the water. Just when we were looking forward to some beachtime it seemed our plans were being sabotaged. We werent going to let it stop us though and set out the next day, planning on spending a couple of nights in Coff’s Harboour hoping to wait out the worst of the rain, and continue to Byron Bay after that.

Sydney was just as pretty a city as I remembered but what made our time there so nice was having Janet, David and their family to make us feel so welcome in their home and show us what they love about Sydney so much.

Au Pair Life: Nerf Gun Wars, Birthday Parties and Swimming Like Mermaids

Being an au pair is a great example of how travelling with someone can make a big difference to your trip. If I had been travelling solo I don’t think I ever would have thought of au pairing, but because of Joey’s background working with kids we had considered it, even before leaving the UK, as a great way for us to work in Australia and I’m so glad we did.

How au pairing works can be down to the family and what specifically they are looking for but generally it allows you to live with a family, sometimes in the home, sometimes in a pool house/granny flat situation on the property, in exchange for work plus an extra payment on top. This extra payment normally isn’t much as the bulk of your wage technically goes to covering your bed and board, yet it is enough to be able to get out and about and do fun things on your days off. Where this situation works great for us as a couple is we have the advantage that one of us can be around for the kids while the other works. In our case that was me. I ended up working at a local pub, which I had a lot of fun at and was casual enough that I could still help out with the kids. If you are solo you may still be able to work a weekend or evening job to top up funds as long as it doesn’t interfere with the family’s schedule so it is a great way to save to continue travelling.

We found Claire and Josh by simply putting up an ad with a bit about ourselves on a facebook group for connecting au pairs and families. They messaged us early on in the trip and seemed to be just putting feelers out for lining up someone in the future so it was a pleasant surprise when, during our farm work, they messaged again looking for a more definite date. It seemed like fate that every time we were wondering where to turn next on our trip a message from them came through solving all our problems. They were friendly and open about themselves and their family and from the beginning it felt like the right fit.

I remember driving to Tocumwal feeling slightly nervous at how I would be around kids. I love kids but I had never been solely responsible for one before. I had no doubt I would have fun with them, it was the taking care of them, the practical stuff, knowing what was wrong and right for that age and being able to tell them no from time to time or calm a tantrum down that I was nervous about. Joey had my back though and I would soon discover that you figure out a lot of that as you go along; things kind of just fell into place and where I didn’t know what to do or how to handle something Joey could help.

On our first day we arrived early evening and got to meet the kids as they were getting ready for bed. We would be looking after Claire and Josh’s three children, Eliza (7 years old), Lachy (6 years old) and Lincoln (4 years old). Three would be a handful at times but was also where working as a couple meant we could tag team who we looked after or even take a break if it got a bit much. On that first night though I felt thrown in the deep end as I ended up reading the three kids multiple stories as Eliza climbed on my back hugging me. At least they seemed to like me straight away!

And I liked them straight away. Eliza is a typical girly girl and loves all things make-up and hair and also enjoys bossing her younger brothers around. Lachy practically lives outside, comes home with bugs in his bag he collected from school and loves David Attenborough and animal facts. We bonded over dinosaur knowledge too as he reminds me a little of myself when I was younger. Linc loves paw patrol, fire trucks and police cars. He is a strong willed little guy but he’s also easy to get laughing.

Being a part of family life meant routine, something we hadn’t experienced much on the trip so far, so rather than take you through every normal day I thought it would be nice to share my favourite memories of our time in Tocumwal with the family.

  • Getting cake and birthday hats for each of our birthdays, all a part of being made to feel welcome.
  • Also getting to celebrate Lachy’s and Josh’s birthdays too!

  • Plus helping Claire to decorate the cake!

  • Blasting music and dancing with Eliza, being silly to make her laugh or trying out different moves.

  • Epic nerf gun battles!
  • Linc telling Joey he had shot his girlfriend after I played dead from a nerf gun bullet then, after Joey saying he would need to find a new girlfriend, Linc reassuring him that he was “Just tricking you, Joey.”

  • Taking the kids to the local pool and playing mermaid games – no one ever wanted to get out at the end of the day, including me!
  • Getting to meet a couple of previous au pairs who came back for a visit, sharing travel tips and ending up sitting under the verandah enjoying the rain and lightning during a massive storm.

  • Getting a job at a local pub and getting to meet new people and join a friendly team. The pub had just reopened under new management so it was also a great experience to see it grow and develop over the time I was there.
  • Beach days by the Murray river, floating in the cool water and sun-baking on the sand.

  • Drawing dinosaurs with Lachy and always being amazed at how many facts he knew.

  • Coming home from work to find them watching Dr Dolittle and finding the guinea pig dancing and singing hilarious, loving the fact I knew it and did the dance too.
  • Joey shouting out hello to every little thing we passed, just being silly but making the kids squeal with laughter.

  • Not being able to walk out the door to work without the kids running at me with open arms, wanting hugs.
  • Visiting Richglen, a beautiful cafe that also sells homemade olive oil, jams, chutneys, salad dressings and all sorts. I took full advantage of as many taste testers as I could and we lost track of time enjoying a cold drink in the garden full of flowers, herbs and sculptures made of recycled things.

  • Taking walks through the bush.
  • Making ice lollies out of fresh squeezed orange juice and laughing as we tried to get a selfie altogether eating them but the kids had different ideas.

  • Building Lego creations with Linc.
  • Reading with them all, helping Lachy progress with his school reading and especially reading bedtime stories. I even made up their own story about Princess Eliza and her two brothers and the adventures they got up to, which they loved!

  • Taking the kids to pick out an item each to donate to the firefighters to help in anyway we could while the bushfire crisis was ongoing.

  • Baking cookies, cakes and making a ginger bread house, which always resulted in mostly trying to make sure most of the icing went on the cakes and not in their
  • mouths!

  • Browsing the local market when it came to town, resisting stocking up on lots of homemade goodies and cheap books!
  • Helping Elfis the Christmas elf cause mischief around the house and seeing how excited the kids were to check out his latest prank.

  • Being a part of these three amazing kids lives even for a short amount of time, getting to see them through the end of one school term and the beginning of another, having the summer to go on adventures and have lots of fun and joining in the excitement of Christmas. It has been an experience I will never forget and was more special than any job I could have imagined doing here in Australia.

P.S. I would like to say Linc was super sad we were leaving but I think he was more grumpy about having a photo taken! Bless him!

Wine, Beaches and More Wine

After leaving our farm position we had a couple of weeks before our next opportunity working as au pairs in a small town called Tocumwal, three hours north of Melbourne. After looking into what we could do along the way we decided Kangaroo Island seemed right up our street. It is hailed as one of the best places in Australia to see wildlife so it seemed perfect for us. The ferry departs from Cape Jervis so we decided to take our time travelling there and stop off at a few places along the way.

Having not really experienced the beaches in Adelaide yet we spent the first few days after leaving the farm hanging out near Glenelg beach. The weather still wasn’t quite sunbathing standard yet but we enjoyed nosing around the shops, the small museum above the information centre that explained the history of Glenelg and how it is considered the oldest European settlement on mainland South Australia and spent the rest of our day sipping a cider and a beer, watching the world go by. It was nice to have a little extra time in Adelaide area but it wasn’t a place that grabbed us so we weren’t too sad to be moving on.

From here our next stop was the McClaren Vale, one of the best wine regions in South Australia. Our campsite was really pretty, an alley of trees leading to a secluded green spot amongst the fields of grapes. Almost immediately we ventured out to some of the local winerys. Within walking distance were two recommended ones, Oxenberry Farm Wines and Serafino. Both offered free tastings and funnily enough I preferred the wines at the first while Joey preferred the wines at the second. They might have only been small tasters but you could easily get tipsy from hopping from one winery to the other and though the tasters were little more than a sip or two for each wine there would be five or six tasters per winery so it never felt like your cup ran dry. At Serifino we decided to grab a full glass each though to truly relax and savour our favourite wines while looking out across the nearby pond.

The next day we headed to d’Arenberg Cube, a winery that is as much an art piece as a vineyard. The building is designed to look like a Rubik’s cube, representing the puzzle that is wine making. Corner balconies jut out, like the Rubik’s cube in motion, allowing for spectacular views of the rolling hills and grape fields for miles around. The winery has connections with art in other ways too and was currently showcasing a Picasso art collection. On the first floor there is also an art gallery full of weird and whacky sculptures from legs dangling from the ceiling to old wind up wooden fair ground toys. There was also a room featuring projections on every wall that showed just as whacky annimations with interesting names such as The Laughing Magpie and The Broken Fishplate. We couldn’t get our heads round it but took it to just be part of this eccentric aesthetic however when we got up to the top floor where the tastings are held we learnt the true meaning behind the animations. Each one was representing the wines on offer, which had the same unique names. We went for the classic tasting options but rotated in a Reisling to try too as it is a wine we enjoy back home and were curious what it would be like in Australia. The reds were a bit too dry for me but right up Joey’ s street. The white wines were fruity, crisp and delicious. Afterwards we grabbed a drink in the cafe to continue enjoying the laid back atmosphere and amazing views.

We had thought to end up there for most of the day but finished earlier than we thought and so decided to check out the nearby town and beach front. I imagined a beachfront pavilion with shops to explore and cafes to while away some time in but it turned out to be just the beach and one expensive restaurant. We didn’t really mind though as the beach was a really pretty spot and not too busy. Part of the joy of having the van with us meant that after a short walk to check it out we headed back to the van, changed into shorts, grabbed our camp chairs, some snacks and a drink to soak up the sun for the rest of the afternoon.

Being in no rush to get to our next campsite we returned to the beach in the morning and this time I even braved the water – cold but refreshing! We had a picnic lunch on the beach then set off for our last stop before Kangaroo Island. Joey had discovered a really cool campsiteto that wasn’t too far from the ferry port called Rapid Bay. It was cheap at just $9 per person per night and we got to park up right on the beach. This was what we had dreamed of when imagining our life in the van, being parked up so close to the beach we could take a dip in the water, walk along the sand to see the jetty at one end and the cave at the other then take just a few steps to our camp chairs to sunbathe the rest of the afternoon away. It was probably our favourite campsite yet.

Our ferry was departing in the afternoon the next day so again there was no rush and we enjoyed another swim and walk along the beach before packing up to go. It was only a short drive to the ferry port and super easy to get checked in and board the ferry. Joey drove on and any other passengers have to board on foot so I met him on board once the van was loaded on. It was just 45 minutes to Kangaroo Island and as we set off towards our campsite we were blown away by the beauty of this island and immediately knew we had made the right choice in going there. We would have plenty to see and explore over the next five days.

150 Days On The Road – Expectations vs. Reality

Strictly speaking not all 150 days were spent on the road. Some of those days were spent on boats, in aeroplanes, on beaches, on farms, riding bikes, travelling by foot, working in fields, swimming in oceans or swimming pools and a whole load of other places and ways to travel in between. But it makes for a catchy title and it is true that we have now been away from home for over 150 days.

This is the longest either myself or Joey has been away for and yet, though we have moments of missing home, friends and family, surprisingly neither of us feels ready for the trip to end yet. We’ve found that where the working holiday visa works really well for us is being able to stop and work when we are craving stability and move on when we are getting itchy feet again. In that respect the WHV has been what we expected and hoped for but in pretty much every other way it has not gone how I imagined it would at all. As someone who often has high expectations, a fantasy version of how I imagine everything will fall into place perfectly, it has been a steep learning curve to be more flexible and accept that I can only make decisions based on my current situation. In fact I feel like I’m still learning that there is no place for regrets on this trip, that I need to live in the present and accept that I can only make decisions for the next steps based on my current situation. That being said, I thought for 150 days I would run you through my expectations for this trip and what it has been like in reality.

Expectation: Australia is expensive.

Reality: Australia is expensive.

There are plenty of ways to keep costs down in Australia from free campsites, house sitting, work aways, cooking cheap meals for yourself and other tips and tricks but it is unavoidable that Australia is an expensive place to travel. There were definitely points of this trip where we could have travelled smarter or cheaper but I also know we have spent money on some amazing experiences that I wouldn’t change for the world, as well as finding plenty of free ones too. However, owning a vehicle, especially a camper van, has been the main expense. I didn’t expect so many repairs, I wasn’t adequately prepared for the costs of rego and insurance and general set up and I definitely underestimated not so much the price of fuel but just how often we would have to fill up because of the distances travelled. If you think you’ve saved enough for Australia, save more.

Expectation: We’ll find farm work easily and find something cool and unique.

Reality: Lots of terrible Gumtree ads, more experience needed than we thought and cool, unique places not being what they seemed at first.

There are plenty of ways to find farm work in Australia but finding something that doesn’t sound dodgey, isn’t impossible to get to or doesnt require farm experience was harder than we expected. We thought we had hit the jackpot when we got a position in the Adelaide Hills on a beautiful farm less than an hour from the city but the reality of being the only two workers there meant it still felt isolated. We had wanted to find something different from fruit picking if possible but at least fruit picking with other backpackers gives you a sense of community we felt was missing from our experience. Basically it had all looked picturesque and too good to be true on the surface and definitely didn’t live up to expectations. However I still enjoyed working outside, having time off to explore the local area and learning some new skills.

Expectation: We will spend the majority of our time on the East Coast.

Reality: Halfway through our visa and we haven’t even reached the East Coast yet.

The plan was always to travel through central Australia really quickly and end up working and spending the most time on the East Coast, when we accepted the farm work and backtracked to Adelaide this changed everything. The downside of this is we feel we have met less backpackers on the road than we thought we would as we have been travelling less popular routes. On the plus side we have been travelling less popular routes. We would never have ended up on Kangaroo Island if we hadn’t been looking for a way to fill our time being farm work and au-pairing. I never imagined that the little town of Hahndorf we admired while passing through on our way to the Red Centre would be somewhere we could pop into for lunch on our days off from the farm. At times it feels like we still have so much left to see of this vast country and other times it feels like we have already seen way more than we expected.

Expectation: We’ll meet lots of other backpackers in campervans.

Reality: Not so much.

We’ve met and seen plenty of grey nomads (retiree Australians with fancy campers and trailers) but not so much other backpackers. Maybe this is due to the places we’ve travelled to so far and maybe this is due to staying on paid campsites more often than we thought we would. It could also be the season we are travelling certain areas in. Whatever the reason we are often left thinking where are all the backpackers? Sometimes we like the time to ourselves and sometimes we crave company. Our recent trip to The Grampians did change things though when we got chatting to an Ozzy bloke traveling with his girlfriend who turned out to be from the UK, who in turn also got chatting to another van life couple from the UK. We spent a couple of nights swapping stories round the campfire and one very adventurous hike together and it did wonders for lifting our spirits.

Expectation: Freedom and Flexibility.

Reality: Constant decision making but also more opportunities.

I thought I had always wanted to do a trip that was completely open-ended with no plan in sight, however this trip has made me realise that I definitely prefer to have a plan. I might not always stick to it but I feel a lot happier and more secure if I know what our next steps are. One of the things I have found hardest about this trip is the constant decision making. Trying to judge whether we are doing the right thing or not is not easy. I mean I can’t even decide what to order at a restaurant let alone where, when and how we should travel the next part of our trip! Yet not having a plan, or at least not having anything booked ahead of time that we have to be somewhere for, has meant that when an opportunity has cropped up that sounds really good, we can go for it. There is no wondering ‘what if’ because we just move things around, reassess our current vague plan and make a new one. It is what led us to au pairing in Tocumwal, where we are currently at, a rural town three hours north of Melbourne we would never have expected to be but living with a lovely family and learning about the Australian way of life.

There are so many more ways I expected this trip to go but these are the big ones. At 150 days in it is hard to say Australia has exceeded my expectations as I still feel we have so much more to do, but it has certainly been unexpected in some of the best ways possible.

I have some major catching up to do on the trip posts so hang tight and expect a flurry of updates on what we have been up to. I’ll link them here as they come out too so all expectations and realities will begin to make sense.

The Road Trip Begins

Finally, after much paperwork and repairs, the van was ready for us to hit the road. We had ended up spending a couple of weeks in Melbourne and we felt this was more than enough. We were ready to move on and put our road trip plans into action.

On a grey morning we did our final preparations and set off for The Great Ocean Road. We couldn’t have picked a more scenic way to begin our trip. The Great Ocean Road actually officially starts from Torquay, a surfing town just outside Melbourne, and hugs the coastline for 243km until it reaches Warrnambool. Along the way there are plenty of viewpoints to stop off at and towns to explore so I had planned that our first day of driving would be a short one. The drive itself is half the fun though. The road twisted and turned, always with the sea to our left, crashing against rocks or lapping at small beaches. We passed coastal towns and stopped along the way at Point Addis, one of the many scenic viewpoints along the route. It felt so good to know that we were finally on our way.

Even though I had planned a short driving day after a late start and stopping for a few photo opportunities it was getting dark by the time we turned off The Great Ocean road and headed inland to find our first camp spot for the night. I had picked a free site in the Otway National Park called Beauchamp Falls. I pictured us arriving early, in time for a quick hike down the falls and then setting up camp. As is easy to do in Australia I had misjudged distance and we found ourselves driving through the dark up a long and winding road. Either side of us was thick forest and the signal was patchy and then gone entirely. We only passed one other vehicle, a mini bus of Asian Tourists, who stopped to ask the way back to Melbourne. We warned them it was a long drive and they would arrive in the city late and they warned us that they had turned back because the road was too narrow. But we had no choice but to carry on.

When we eventually pulled into the basic campsite it was pitch black. We used the headlights to scout the campground and found we couldn’t even park up on the grass as there were bollards in the way. There was no one else there and the deep dark forest surrounded us on every front. My imagination was running wild. Every bad horror movie was running through my head and looked suspiciously into the trees, half expecting to hear something or someone stirring. I tried to push these thoughts aside and started cooking dinner, making the van warm and cosy.

In the morning I emerged from the van into a tranquil forest glen. What had seemed dark and eery the night before was actually a gorgeous forest, with moss and vines growing over the trees that stretched endlessly to the sky and curly fungus growing on fallen logs. I stood in the middle of it all and took in the beautiful quiet, only the occasionally drip from the leaves around me and the twittering of birds nearby.

We were up nice and early and headed over to the nearby Otway Fly Treetop Adventure where you can either zip line through the trees or take a more sedate walk along the treetop walkway. Normally I’m always up for zip lining but to save a few bucks we opted for the walk instead. It was incredible to be right up in the canopy of these giant trees and there were signs with information about the local fauna that were really interesting. It is definitely worth a detour from the Great Ocean Road.

There was still plenty more to see along the next stretch of our journey and we headed out of Otway National Park and back to the coastline. There are several different rock formations along the Great Ocean Road, though the most famous and the one I was looking forward to the most was The Twelve Apostles. First we saw the Razorback, a long section of broken away cliff where the top has been worn razor thin by the elements. Then there is Loch Ard Gorge, which is named after a ship that wrecked there in 1878 as they were coming to the end of their three month journey from England to Melbourne. And finally The Grotto, an archway in the rock that frames a rock pool looking out to see, like a little private infinity pool. The Twelve Apostles is the main sight to see and it does perfectly capture what is so beautiful about the Great Ocean Road – a coastline stretching on forever, picturesque beaches and impressive rock formations. The Twelve Apostles are limestone stacks that have taken over 6000 years to form their shape and only eight remain after the other stacks collapsed into the ocean. But to me they were a symbol that the places I had seen pictures of, taken tips from guide books and brochures about and even described to others looking to book that trip, was now something I was getting to see and experience in real life. It brought home the fact that our long awaited road trip dreams were finally happening.

We veered off from The Great Ocean Road before it officially ended as our next stop was The Grampians National Park. It was another short drive day but again with all the stops in between we arrived as it was dark and bumped down a dirt track that led to our next free campsite. Luckily in this case there was another car on the road, a Juicy camper car we figured was also heading for the same campsite. We turned out to be correct and once we were parked up they came over to say hi. They were a lovely French couple spending six weeks exploring Australia and had already been in the national park for a couple of days so were able to give us tips on which hikes to do. This night didn’t feel quite so creepy as the last one and we were starting to find our feet with traveling in the van. Before settling in for the night we gazed up at spectacular starry sky, the Milky Way shimmering above us and loving every moment of being out in nature.

The next day we were off to explore it all by foot, starting our day of hiking with The Pinnacle, one of the most popular hikes in the Grampians. There are a few different options for walking it. You can start from Halls Gap, which is around 9.6km and takes around 5 hours going in a loop, there is the Sundial Carpark start point which is around 2.1km and 2 hours or from Wonderland Carpark which is similar distance and length but a slightly more challenging route. We started our walk from Sundial Carpark, mainly because we had one full day here and there were other hikes we wanted to fit in as well. The first natural marker we came across was The Grand Canyon,which isn’t quite as Grand as the one in the USA and made of grey stone instead of red (wish I could tell you the actual types instead of just the colours but that’s as far as my geology stretches). It is easy to think of Australia as being all like the outback, very much a desert landscape, but one of the things that has fascinated me about this country is just how different it can look from one area, one town, one state to another. In the Grampians, despite the different coloured rock, it could have been an American National Park we were hiking through – apart from the eucalyptus trees every so often – no koalas though unfortunately.

From the mini Grand Canyon we continued following the dusty path upwards, passing little nooks in the rock perfect for cooling off and tall sparse trees either side of us. Sometimes we followed the path and sometimes simple markers as we walked over rock. Eventually we reached Silent Street, an indication that we were nearing the top. This narrow path between a stone crevasse finished with a few steep stairs and only another ten minutes or less to the top. The Pinnacle itself is a rock jutting out (not unlike pride rock in the Lion King) over an incredible view o the National Park below. The views took your breath away but there was still more to see.

If I thought the view from The Pinnacle was amazing then I was even more blown away by the view from Baroka Lookout. For this we had to jump back in the van and head upwards on some very wiggly roads, even the temperature dropped further this high up. But it was worth it. I don’t think I’ve ever been able to see so far from a viewpoint before.

After Baroka Lookout we did another couple of shorter walks, one to The Balconies, an almost mini version of The Pinnacle but on a much flatter walk and overlooking a different side of the Grampians. The second to MacKenzie Falls Lookout. You can do a longer hike down to the falls themselves but we were feeling a bit tired at this point and opted to just look from afar from the shorter viewpoint walk instead. It turned out we made the right decision as after checking out the falls we turned to do a loop back to where we came from where a sudden movement to our right startled us both. We turned to see a wallaby hopping away into the brush. We got a good clear look at him as he tried to suss us out and then hopped into denser brush then we spotted a second but both were so well camouflaged (there is a wallaby in the first photo below as evidence of this – check out @ThereAndBackAgainJJ for a clearer video) we could have walked pass a hundred that day and not realised. We were so excited to see them up close and we got an extra treat back at the campsite when a cluster were grazing just outside our van at night and some were even nearby in the morning as we packed up for our next destination.

I would have loved to stay in The Grampians longer. There is so much to explore and many more hikes on offer, plus the campsite itself was so peaceful, but unfortunately up all the hilly roads our van had started making strange noises and we felt it was best to get it checked out in Adelaide where there were more accommodation options if we had to leave the van overnight to be fixed. As great as van life is this was a reality check to us that there are always possibilities of things going wrong and we crossed our fingers that we would make it to Adelaide safe and sound, that the van would be an easy fix and that this wouldn’t be the end of our road trip before it had really begun.